I think my mother made up her mind, she is going with a smaller cubic foot refrigerator.
There are some refrigerators will all sorts of options. Saw one with a tablet mounted in the door. You can pull up your google calendar, and leave note, write shopping lists. I am sure it has a picture gallery. One of the sales people at Lowes said there is a refrigerator with a camera in it so you can look to see if you need something. They have refrigerators with doors inside doors. You open a partial door for quick items like butter or milk, or you can open the full door.
Traditional freezer on top units are hard to find. Those damn Frenchy doors are popular. Not side by sides, freezer on the bottom (which sucks) with two doors for the refrigerator.
If anyone else is going to get a new refrigerator, watch out for the French doors and the meat/cheese tray that goes across the whole unit. You have to open both doors just to get something out of the drawer. Poor design.
I have a side-by-side and greatly prefer it. Barring that, though, I'd rather have a freezer in the bottom. I used to have an extra freezer, which the power company paid me in both cash and light bulbs to get rid of. True story.
:)
Most major changes in appliances, though, are made in order to comply with increasingly strict regulations on energy efficiency. I think we discussed this here not too long ago. Efficient, affordable, high quality -- pick any two.
The refrigerators with screens on them are neato but I definitely don't want one. It seems obvious that the device will become obsolete long before the end of the refrigerator's service life.
Anyway, wound up with a GE unit (which I didn't really want). Fucking WiFi connection, and software you can get on a phone or tablet to control it.
It's getting to the point where I'm going to put in a DMZ wifi network for all this crap.
On an air conditioner it just seems silly. I guess it's now cheaper to put a wifi chip on the appliance than it is to include a remote control. And now we'll have to deal with "your air conditioner is spying on you!"
Wed Aug 31 2016 15:29:50 EDT from IGnatius T Foobar @ UncensoredThat kinda-sorta made sense with televisions (but I didn't like it there either).
On an air conditioner it just seems silly. I guess it's now cheaper to put a wifi chip on the appliance than it is to include a remote control. And now we'll have to deal with "your air conditioner is spying on you!"
on the other hand, if everything starts using apps instead of remote controls, you'll be able to save so much time/effort/money on those annoying triple-A batteries
on the other hand, if everything starts using apps instead of remote
controls, you'll be able to save so much time/effort/money on those
annoying triple-A batteries
Not to mention the time and effort of locating all the remote controls that went missing.
In the future, you will need a different mobile phone for every device, since each app will only work properly on a certain flavor of android. For others, you need an old ipad.
You will save on AA/AAA batteries but you will invest that amount into chargers and cables and replacement phones.
I found an old newspaper ad from the mid 70s. 19.0 Cu. Ft. Coldspot Regrigerator, $319. I believe that was Sears ad.
Does anybody have a suggestion for concrete floor paint? I would like it to seal if possible. The floor already has a coat of paint on it from years ago.
Used SealKrete Epoxy-Seal.
Looked great when it was finished. It's very thin, and needs a couple of coats.
The devil is in the prep work. There were a few areas that I didn't prep as well, and it lifted right away.
If it's been previously painted, I'd just use whatever crappy paint you used before though. The epoxy paint says it can be used other paint if prepped right. Don't believe it.
Wed Sep 07 2016 03:24:52 PM EDT from Ragnar Danneskjold @ UncensoredI just did the basement in my father-in-law's old place a few months ago.
Used SealKrete Epoxy-Seal.
Looked great when it was finished. It's very thin, and needs a couple of coats.
The devil is in the prep work. There were a few areas that I didn't prep as well, and it lifted right away.
If it's been previously painted, I'd just use whatever crappy paint you used before though. The epoxy paint says it can be used other paint if prepped right. Don't believe it.
Thank you for the advice. The person at Lowes recommended SealKrete as well. She didn't go over the prep work. I reviewed the prep work, and that is a lot of work. Sand, wash, rinse, primer, then the SealKrete. More of a pain in the ass than it is worth. I will go with a coat of regular paint.
Currently I am painting the walls. Twenty-five to thirty years ago there was two coats of UGL DryLock put on the cellar walls, so I am "freshening up" by adding another coat of the stuff.
Basements are a pain in the ass. I miss Florida, no basements.
There are a lot of springs in the area, there is drainage around the house. The drain in the backyard always has water coming out of it from the drainage around the house, but the drain in the house is dry. There is a place for a sump-pump but there isn't one. The basement is humid but not wet. The floor should have had sealer on it but the regular paint is not flaking off, it is just very dirty.
Last winter we had a bad condensation problem and a series of events. The family always turns the water off if we leave for extended periods of time. The main shut off valve started to leak and had to be replaced. When they replaced the valve they never put a washer between the valve and the meter. There was a larger leak and they came back to fix that. Previously in this thread I mentioned there wasn't any heat in my parent's basement. You can't run a dehumidifier in colder temps with all the extra water the moisture level was very high. There was about a week the area had very cold temps and condensation was all over the walls and floor. It was a very wet mess. Because of the springs I am sure there is water under basement floor, however the regular paint has not lifted.
All of the neighbors have sump pumps or water problems my parents do not. The neighbor across the street has a house that is on a hill and much higher than my parent's house. Their basement floods, my parent's basement does not.
And unfortunately that means dealing with the building department.
In the old house, the propane installation was grandfathered in and really easy to work with. Half inch soft copper tubing from the tank, which was behind the garage, all the way to the stove. Some of you might even remember that I tapped in and added another feed for my gas grill on the patio.
No such luck this time around. The building code has caught up and now requires rigid pipe for the indoor portion. The code seems to be concerned with gas lines that go through floors and walls, that they cannot easily be crushed.
And it has to be done by a licensed plumber. The outdoor portion can be soft copper and I can do it myself. Gee, thanks.
Yeesh. Some moron in the youtube comments section is telling me that using your dryer outlet as a generator inlet is safe because he not only switches off the main breaker, but also loosens and disconnects the service wire off the neutral lug of his main panel before he plugs in the generator.
He's going to get himself killed. I hope he doesn't take down anyone else at the same time.