Outdoor Pursuits

what did they do to the snow? or are you on vacations to down under?

just found that:

http://www.sboard.cn/prod_detail.asp?id=991

somehow reminds me about that snowtrax stuff...

*roflamo*

"Think about it. Open topped fast cars have a purpose, road bikes don't.  "

http://bristolcars.blogspot.com/2010/08/men-bicycles-are-not-answer-to-your-mid.html

*roflamo*

this one is for Animal:

http://www.bildschirmarbeiter.com/video/warum_bekomme_ich_einen_strafzettel/

I didn't get it totaly, why is he ticketing that guy? because of missing mudd-guards?

Tue Dec 14 2010 08:13:19 AM EST from dothebart @ Uncensored

*roflamo*

this one is for Animal:

http://www.bildschirmarbeiter.com/video/warum_bekomme_ich_einen_strafzettel/

 

I didn't get it totaly, why is he ticketing that guy? because of missing mudd-guards?

LOL....he didn't have the right equipment on the bike.  Muffler for one.  Probably no tail light or headlight.  The most heinous of crimes:  he didn't have a license plate!!

I'm not sure, but I don't think that was a real cop either.  He didn't acknowledge the camera and he was not carrying enough equipment on his belt.  No lights on the car either.

hm, read this comment about commute time with two roadbikes:

@Finbar do you mean "it _wasn't_ a scientific piece" ?

Anyway here's some figures from bike calculator, gradient zero

Rider 1, 70 Kg, Bike 7 Kg, 300 watts --> 36.99 kph

Rider 2, 70 Kg, Bike 11 Kg, 300 watts --> 36.90 kph

There you have it, a small difference in weight makes hardly any difference. But change the drag by placing rider 2 on the "hoods"

Rider2, Bike 11 Kg, position on the "hoods" --> 40.01 kph

what does 'on the "hoods"' mean here?

full context: http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/lighter-bike-wont-get-you-to-work-faster-says-doctor-28693?CPN=RSS&SOURCE=BRGENHOME

not an expression I'm familiar with...

it's an interesting piece, I think.

Basically says that you can't justify buying the fanciest lightest bike out there if all you're using it for is your commute.

In the comments there, people seem to not get the point... They think he's trying to say that it makes no difference no matter what the circumstance.

hm, didn't see it from that perspective yet.

my brother told me that its probably about using the lower ends of the handlebar, which reduce your cw-value

first met this article mentioned on copenhagenize.com, who tried to leverage it as a point for:

"commuting with your short john in your work clothes gives you the same time as commuting with any sorts of roadbike wearing lycra"

which definitely wasn't the point, since that guy rode a roadbike both times, a carbon ultra modern one, and a steel roadbike from the late 90'ies, which most probably has just 2 gears less.

while the car does:

http://beltane73.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/eingeschneit2.jpg?w=300&h=199

we went shopping, zarath had to pull it all home:

http://beltane73.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/eingeschneit.jpg?w=201&h=300

Ok, I had to push him to get started up the hill, else the rear weel would just go off...The trailer had about 40 kg weight (potatoes, beer...) the orange bags around 10 each..

Thats what happenes if you're to lazy to shovel the car, and ride the 1 km into the city center...

so basically, you're saying that the two bikes probably weren't substantially different in many respects. Seems a shame to spend 20x as much on something 3 kilo lighter.

well, sort of. A 'Short John' is a cargo bike like the mail delivery guys ride. You won't make the same time with such a bike on that distance; its probably rather heavier than 20 kg and won't have such a good gearbox; which is why copenhagenizes arguments about this are pointless.

on those roadbikes you have to see that the steel one is a used one, which makes the price...

the 3 kg are in relation to the combined rider/bike weight not that much, that they count under such circumstances.

BUT. If you're not riding alone (share the wind with others) like racing or just riding with another bunch of roadbikers, these 3 kg might matter.

I guess in the end such a s00per carbon bike is like your sunday skirt: wear it all day, and it quickly will wear of for nothing.

Just ride it in nice (dry) weather conditions, when racing about with others you're going to have more fun out of it.

I also have some cheap lycra panties (10e) for my everyday commute ( 20 km) and more expensive ones (150E) for racing about (>50 km)

A trekking bike (and now a cross-bike too) for bad weather conditions, and (just an aloy) roadbike for good weather conditions.

oh, and btw... once you do more cycling, you start changing parts wearing off (or just becoming replaced by technical superior stuff) on your first bike, you can put that on your second (sort of similar) roadbike.

so most probably the 150$ he mentiones for the steel bike are no realistic number if you'd like to get the same in 'new' state.

Most probably getting such a bike will cost more than 1500$

- lighter (reduce bike weight by 1kg -> 1000$ when you start out with a $800 roadbike of 10 kg)

- more dureable - parts will last longer

- better adjusteable - tuning the hickups out of an expensive bike usually takes less time

- more reliability - parts less probably will fail on you

- more effective - you will get more of your force to the road

whew. read you about purchasing that 10 months ago...

that paid off more quickly then one would have expected. glad you made it.

Yesterday, I needed a jacket when I went to pick up my kids... it gets cold at night.